Plumbing Tips from Vince
 1. Noise, water hammer
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QUESTION: My mom’s home was built in 1959. For the last year,
we have heard a loud knocking any time the water from
one of the kitchen, bathtub or bathroom faucets is
turned off after running. It knocks four or five times
and then stops. It doesn’t happen when the toilets are
flushed or when the dishwasher or clothes washer are
run. We have never seen evidence of a leak. Can you shed
some light on what is causing the knocking?
Monica
Thacker, Carmichael
ANSWER: “What you are describing is called ‘water hammer,’
but I am afraid I just don’t have enough information to
make an accurate diagnosis,” says Vince McDonald of
McDonald Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning in
Sacramento.
“It is odd that the noise happens with all those faucets
but not the dishwasher or washer, and that it makes
noise after, rather than during, the operation of the
faucets. The list of possible causes includes loose
faucet washers, a bad fill valve in a toilet, and
thermal expansion and contraction of the piping system.
I don’t think the noise is cause for alarm. It is not
likely that the problem will cause damage to the home.
This sounds like a good one for an informed plumbing
contractor to visit the site in person,” he says.
2. Noise, gurgling
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QUESTION: Help! Since remodeling the kitchen several years ago,
there are loud gurgling noises in the sink whenever the
clothes washer in the garage is draining. I have had it
with this distracting racket and need advice on what
could be causing it.
J. Layton,
via e-mail
ANSWER: “If your plumbing drain and vent systems are properly
installed and clean, you should never have the loud
gurgling sound you describe,” says Vince McDonald, owner
of McDonald Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning in
Sacramento.
“These sounds are commonly caused by the improper
installation of the kitchen waste or vent piping system.
Or, possibly, the vent serving the kitchen sink is
stopped up. It sounds like the laundry drain line
connects into the kitchen sink drain under the floor,
and they drain into the main sewer line. When the
washing machine empties, it discharges a high volume of
water in a matter of just a few seconds into this common
line.”
“If your kitchen sink is not properly vented, the water
passing down the drain will suck air from the kitchen
sink drain. The sound you are hearing is the water in
the trap under the sink being sucked out. The venting
system should keep this from happening by drawing air
through this system when water flows down the drain.”
“My suggestion is to have a plumbing professional check
to make sure the plumbing drain and venting system is
properly installed. The plumber will also be able to
determine if the vent is unobstructed. Be sure to inform
the company that you require someone who knows plumbing
installations and code, as they may apply to your
problem. Unfortunately, some plumbing and drain cleaning
professionals are well versed on simple repairs and
drain cleaning, but lack the knowledge and experience to
properly diagnose a problem like yours.
3. Toilet flapper, one-piece vs. two-piece toilets, black substance
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QUESTION: Three years ago I purchased a Kohler low-profile
toilet. I have had to replace the flapper three times.
Also, the handle never returns to the “off” position
regardless of how many times it is adjusted. Currently,
there is a black substance appearing in the bowl, not in
the tank. What is going on?
Beverly
Fitzpatrick, Orangevale
ANSWER: “By low-profile toilet, I assume you mean a one-piece
toilet,” says Vince McDonald, owner of McDonald
Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning in Sacramento.
“One piece toilets look nice and are normally quieter
than a traditional two-piece toilet, but they are more
complicated to work on. Most toilets’ flushing action is
accomplished by gravity. The whole tank of water sits
above the toilet bowl and when the tank is flushed,
gravity sends the water out of the tank and into the
bowl. It is a simple, reliable system.”
“However, because the water tank of one-piece toilets is
not entirely above the bowl, they would do a very poor
job of clearing the toilet bowl with a gravity flush
alone. So manufacturers have designed them to use the
power of the tank fill water to assist the flushing
process. Some models, called pressure flush or
power-assist toilets also use a pressure tank to aid in
the flush.”
“It is unusual to have to change the flapper so often.
Perhaps you are using a part that is not of the same
quality or exact design of the factory original. Make
sure you use only factory parts. The black substance in
the toilet bowl is probably mold or mildew growing in a
constant flow of water into the bowl because the flapper
is not holding back the water in the tank. When you stop
the constant water flow, the black mold should
disappear. The handle never returns to the ‘off’
position because the rotor – the part that diverts the
water into the bowl when the toilet is flushed to aid in
the flushing process – is not properly adjusted or is
worn out.”
“If you continue to have problems with the toilet, call
a plumbing professional who is familiar with your
toilet. A constant flow of water through your toilet can
damage the toilet as well as the seal at the floor, so
it is a good idea to get it repaired soon.”
4. Backup, bellies, flat spots, odor
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QUESTION: I purchased a new home in Rocklin in June 2002. In
February 2004, the laundry room flooded. In other rooms,
sinks, tubs and toilets were filled with backed-up
water. A plumber cleared the system and said he found
what he referred to as a “belly” in the pipes. We called
the builders. They came out and determined the system to
be clear but found what they called a “flat spot.” I
fear that this mess could happen again.
Also, from the time I moved in, I’ve noticed a musty
odor coming from the kitchen sink. When I finally got
the attention of the service rep, I told him the problem
was getting more pronounced. He sent a plumber, who said
everything is draining okay and that the odor is not
unusual because garbage disposals are made differently
now and they collect food particles under the rubber
gasket. I feel they are not addressing the drainage or
odor problems.
Natalie
Malone, Rocklin
ANSWER: “Building codes require that all drainage systems
have a minimum grade of ¼ inch per foot,” says Vince
McDonald of McDonald Plumbing, Heating and Air
Conditioning in Sacramento. “This means that for every
foot the drainage pipe travels, it drops in grade ¼
inch.”
“A ‘flat spot’ is a section of drain line that has no
grade, up or down. A ‘belly’ in the line means that the
line dips down and then back up before it resumes the
proper grade downhill. The belly will hold water in the
line at all times. Both situations can cause line
stoppages. In a home as new as yours, both are caused by
improper piping installations.”
“More than likely, the plumbing contractor failed to
install the pipe with adequate grade and the building
inspector failed to discover the mistake. There is also
a chance that the pipe was installed properly but at the
time of the backfill of the piping trench, the pipe was
pushed down and is now out of grade. Often, installation
mistakes like this go unnoticed because the line never
stops up. With the advent of TV cameras for drain and
sewer line inspections, we can now accurately diagnose
bad drain lines. In your case, it sounds like there is a
possibility the installation error is now causing your
stoppage problem.”
“Unfortunately, the only way to fix the problem is to
open up the floor and properly install a new line. This
is a difficult and disruptive process, especially since
you have concrete floors.” McDonald says you should talk
with your home builder. “It is my belief that they are
still responsible for the repairs. When in question, you
can always contact the State Contractors License Board
(800/321-2752 or
www.cslb.ca.gov) and your local building department.
Even if they agree to take care of the repairs, you need
to have them thoroughly explain the impact of the
repairs and remediation on your life and home. You may
choose to continue to clean and monitor the line
occasionally instead of the repair.”
“As far as the odor problem, it is unlikely that it is
related to the piping problem under the floor. The odor
could be caused by:
A water leak in the walls or vicinity of the kitchen
sink,
An improper trap in the drain line under the sink,
An improper venting system that permits the water to drain out
of the trap under the sink, causing a sewer gas smell,
A broken drain or venting pipe in the wall, or
Improper installation of the dishwasher drain line hose.
5. Sewer, Orangeburg pipes, tarpaper pipes
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QUESTION: I live in a home that was built in 1950. My neighbor
told me that he had to replace his sewer line because it
was made of tarpaper that broke down. Our home has
occasionally had sewer backups. Were tarpaper pipes used
a lot in the Sacramento area and how can I know if I
have the same tarpaper pipes?
ANSWER: “Homeowners are increasingly experiencing problems
with tar paper sewer pipes,” according to Vince McDonald
of McDonald Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning.
“Commonly called Orangeburg pipes, the material was
widely used in the greater Sacramento area between 1940
and 1970. During and after World War II other materials
were in short supply and cost more to buy and install”.
“The Orangeburg Manufacturing Company produced sewer
pipe built up from paper and sealed with bituminous tar,
to be installed without gaskets and sealed with more
tar. These connections were never very watertight and
over time most leak even more. In addition, the layers
of paper start to separate from one another inside the
pipe, forming blisters that swell and obstruct the flow
of sewage.
“It’s amazing that tarpaper pipes have lasted so long! I
remember my father talking about installing these pipes
when he was a young plumber in neighborhoods like Land
Park, Hollywood Park, Tahoe Park, and Curtis Park. The
best way to assess the situation is with a TV Camera
sewer inspection available from many licensed plumbing
contractors. The only real cure for leaky tarpaper sewer
pipes is replacement.”
6. Sewer replacement, trenchless, TV camera,
landscaping
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QUESTION: We have repeatedly had sewer problems in our home in
the midtown area. I called a plumber who said that I
probably need a sewer replacement. He said that there
could be a break or roots affecting the sewer. My
landscaping includes a new brick patio and
well-established trees, shrubs and lawn. How can I be
sure that I need a new sewer? Is there any way to avoid
ruining my landscaping?
ANSWER: “You can be grateful for new technology,” according
to Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing, Heating and Air
Conditioning. “Your sewer line can be inspected using a
TV camera that will take the guesswork out of the
decision to replace the sewer line. It will show any
breakage or blockages. It will also show exactly where
the problem is – which can minimize the cost of a sewer
line replacement.”
“If you need to replace the sewer, the good news is that
trenchless sewer replacement is available from some
contractors. It is a much less intrusive method than the
old way of digging up the complete line. The Trenchless
Pipe method uses the existing damaged sewer line as a
guide for the new pipe. A cone-shaped, path-clearing
installation head pulls new, full-sized replacement pipe
right through the old one. At last, a better, quicker,
and far less costly way to upgrade your sewer line! You
can preserve your landscaping and get a new sewer line
installed underground.”
7. Tankless water heaters, installation
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QUESTION: It's time we replaced our old water heater, and
recently I've been hearing about "tankless water
heaters." Are these better than the traditional
water heaters? And if so, could a homeowner install one
himself or is the job better left to a professional?
Thank you for any information you can give me.
Margie Ballenger
ANSWER: “Tankless water heaters have been popular in Europe
and Asia for years and sales of tankless water heaters
there far exceed tank-type units,” says Vince McDonald
of McDonald Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning in
Sacramento.
“Sales of tankless water heaters in the Western states
are growing like never before because these units
provide the following three distinct advantages:
Unlimited hot water supply
Tankless water heaters supply continuous hot water that
is activated by water flow. As long as the water is
running, the unit will continue to provide a stream of
hot water up to its designed flow rate. Providing hot
water for those long showers or large bathtubs is no
longer a problem.
Energy savings
Traditional tank water heaters require energy to store
gallons of water and keep it hot. Tankless water
heaters consume little or no energy when they are not in
use.
Space-savings size
Small in size (about the size of a piece of carry-on
luggage) tankless units mount on the wall, thereby
conserving valuable floor space.”
“Outdoor models save even more space and provide more
options for new home builders and existing home remodels
by getting the water heater out of the house,” McDonald
says. “These units are ideal for special situations,
such as vacation homes, cabin homes, pool houses and
families or singles who travel frequently.”
“Changing an existing gas water heater inside the home
with a tankless water heater definitely requires the
services of a professional plumber because the gas line
and vent through the roof will more than likely have to
be upgraded. Tankless water heaters are available in
both gas or electric models, though the gas ones are
much more efficient and economical,” McDonald says. “I
suggest that any consumer that is interested in this
type of technology consult with the manufacturer or an
educated contractor who can design and system that will
meet their needs. The contractor can also inform the
consumer of both the product benefits and limitations.”
8. Tankless water heater, electric water heaters
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QUESTION: My husband and I bought a 20-plus-year-old
condominium that is all electric. We inherited a
standard electric 50-gallon hot water tank that is over
10 years old and seems to be failing. We have done some
research on replacement hot water tanks and systems,
with an eye toward longevity, as well as the primary
goal of generous amounts of ready hot water at a
reasonable cost. We are seriously thinking about putting
in a tankless hot water system. We are told by the
manufacturer that it will afford us instant and endless
hot water at an economical price, we will gain an extra
closet where the old tank was, and that this is the
equipment of the future.
We are told by the naysayers that it will not heat
quickly or hot enough, that we will incur a great fire
danger due to the current needed to run through old
electrical wires, that no one knows how to install them
properly or how long they’ll last, and that they may be
good for gas-powered installations but not for
electric-powered installations. We talked to people at
SMUD, and they were noncommittal, saying they didn’t
know much about them. Can you tell me what is known
about tankless hot water systems?
Mrs. Lewis
Rosenberg via email
ANSWER: “Yes, tankless water heaters are becoming more
common,” says Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing,
Heating and Air Conditioning in Sacramento. “ I am not
sure to what extent that builders are going to tankless
water heaters, but certainly it is a growing trend”
“Retrofitting from a standard tank type of heater to a
tankless unit does require additional work and expense.
The gas models have the capacity to deliver quite a bit
more GPM (gallons per minute) than the electric models.
I know of no electrical hazards when it comes to a
tankless electric water heater that is properly
installed to current building codes,” says McDonald.
“However, in the Sacramento area, electric tankless
water heaters are rare and only lately have we gotten
any interest in them. As a result, I have no track
record with them.”
McDonald says, “After researching tankless heaters on
the Internet I discovered that they require a great
amount of power. Many units require more power than most
people’s present electric panel is capable of
providing.”
“After you have selected a model you think will
supply your needed GPM delivery of hot water, call a
licensed electrician to size up your electric panel to
make sure you have the electrical capacity for the
larger demand that a tankless electric water heater
requires.”
9. Toilet, toilet seal, leaks
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QUESTION: About two years ago, I discovered that the toilet in
my main bathroom was leaking. In January 2003 I removed
the toilet and found that the leaking seal had ruined
the particle board. I removed all the damaged board and
hired a contractor to replace the flooring with marine
plywood. New vinyl flooring and a new toilet seal were
installed. Six months later an annual termite inspection
revealed that the toilet seal was seeping. The
contractor returned to replace the double toilet seal.
The termite inspection in May 2004 revealed again that
the toilet seal was seeping. I hired a different
contractor to replace the seal but upon periodic
inspecting, I find there is some moisture. That’s three
toilet seals in a year and a half. What can be done?
Albert
Gonzalez, Roseville
ANSWER: “Replacing leaking toilet seals is a common task,”
says Vince McDonald, owner of McDonald Plumbing, Heating
and Air Conditioning in Sacramento. “The likelihood that
all of the technicians failed to perform the task
properly is somewhat remote, especially if the workers
were journeymen plumbers. If the plumbing drain is in
good condition and properly installed, yet the toilet
continues to leak after it has been reset several times,
the likelihood is that the toilet is bad,” McDonald
says, and he recommends replacing it.
10. Cold water, shut-off valves, re-pipe
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QUESTION: My mother’s half-bath lost its cold water over a year
ago. There’s still hot water at the sink, but no cold
water either there or at the toilet. I can understand
losing hot water from the water heater, but cold water?
There don’t seem to be leaks anywhere – if there were,
the yard would show it, wouldn’t it? There is a crawl
space under the house with no apparent standing water.
Could the pipes be clogged, even though this bathroom
was added after the original construction? Can you tell
what may have happened to the cold water?
R.F. Wright,
Sacramento
ANSWER: “The first thing you should do is make sure the
shut-off valves for both fixtures are in an open
position,” advises Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing,
Heating and Air Conditioning in Sacramento. “It is
possible that someone may have turned them off. Even
though it is unusual, your mother may have a valve on
the cold water pipe for that bathroom, which was
installed when the bath was added on. If so, make sure
the valve is open. If all the valves are open and still
no water, I would say it is time to call your plumber,”
McDonald says. “My guess is that you have a stoppage in
the pipe that prevents the water from coming through to
the fixtures. The plumber will need to further diagnose
the problem and possibly flush out the pipes or change
them with a new pipe.
11. Drain vent, slow drain
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QUESTION: Recently, a friend had a problem with his kitchen
sink drain and tried all kinds of things to clear the
drain. He finally had to call a sewer service, which
fixed the problem when he wasn’t home. A service
representative said the problem was a clogged vent, but
my friend doesn’t know how it was repaired. I live in an
older home with some slow drains, and I may have the
same problem. How do you clear a clogged vent?
Dick Conway
via email
ANSWER: “Most homeowners, as well as the majority of
drain-cleaning personnel, give no thought to a
stopped-up vent system preventing a drain from working
properly,” says Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing,
Heating and Air Conditioning in Sacramento. “Although a
plugged vent can interfere with the proper functioning
of the drain, it rarely stops up a drain completely,” he
says. “Poor waste-pipe drainage can be somewhat
tolerated in a basin or bathtub, but when it comes to a
washing machine drain, it can result ina flood of water
onto the floor.”
“The purpose of the vent is to introduce air into the
drainage system. It equalizes the pressures in the
system and permits the wastewater to flow freely down
the line. The vent also prevents the water in the trap,
sometimes called the goose neck, from siphoning out. The
trap, with its built-in water seal, prevents sewer gas
from entering your home through the drainage system.
When wastewater runs down a waste line, it often backs
up into the venting system. As it recedes, it leaves
behind residue and waste particles. Over time, the vent
can become stopped up and no longer provide its
important function.”
“In California, code requires all plumbing fixtures to
be properly vented. The vents for all plumbing fixtures
pass up through the walls and terminate through the
roof. “one quick way to check your vents is to run water
from a garden hose down through your vents from on top
of the roof,” McDonald said. “Sometimes a drain-cleaning
technician will run a machine down the vent from on top
of the roof. Often, the vents of more than one plumbing
fixture will be connected together before passing
through the roof. Because of the nature of this repair,
it would be a good idea to hire a professional drain
cleaning or plumbing company,” McDonald advises.
12. Water temperature, old pipes
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QUESTION: The water in our showers ranges from extreme cold to
extreme hot without us turning the knob. This happens in
both bathrooms. The water heater is about 12 years old.
What causes this and how can it be fixed?
Liz Irons,
Elk Grove
ANSWER: “I doubt that your water heater has anything to do
with the shower problem,” says Vince McDonald of
McDonald Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning in
Sacramento. “My guess is that you also have low water
pressure and possibly an older plumbing system, or
perhaps one which is not properly engineered to deliver
water to your showers without large temperature
fluctuations. One option is to install pressure-balanced
shower valves. These valves have been required on all
new construction and remodels for the past couple of
years. They automatically adjust the hot-water flow
through the valve when the pressure fluctuates.”
“I suspect that the root of the problem is more serious.
Older homes often have a galvanized steel piping system that
gets clogged with corrosion, causing lower water pressure and
greatly reduced flow. When you hop in the shower, the system,
with its capacity to deliver adequate water flow, is overwhelmed
when another plumbing fixture in the home is used at the same
time,” he says. “There is only so much water that this troubled
system can deliver, and it currently is just not enough,” he
says. “Make sure that you announce to everyone in your home that
you are going in the shower and ‘Don’t run anything!’"
“The best way to resolve this problem is to have your
plumber change the water piping system. It needs to be
designed according to current sizing methods and tables
found in the Uniform Plumbing Code. Simply replacing the
old pipes with new pipes the same size may not be
enough. If your home does not have galvanized pipes,
then it is possible that it was not properly engineered
and sized. Consult with a licensed, reputable plumbing
firm. They should be able to properly diagnose your
problem and provide you with options and a written
estimate.”
13. Toilet, blue streaks
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QUESTION: I have an expensive commode with a pull knob on top
and very low water flush. The back part of the commode
has blue steaks that we have been unable to remove. What
could be causing them?
C. Sanders,
Volcano
ANSWER: “The blue streaks are more than likely due to the
tank seal permitting a small trickle of water to leak
past it into the bowl,” says Vince McDonald of McDonald
Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning in Sacramento.
“We rarely see your problem under normal operation when
the toilet is flushed,” he says. “Another problem that a
constantly leaking tank seal can cause is a failure in
the wax seal at the floor,” McDonald warns. “Your toilet
has a wax seal under the toilet bowl that connects it to
the drainage system. If you want to change the seal and
are unsure or unable to do so, I suggest that you hire a
licensed plumbing firm to take care of it. This is one
maintenance problem you can’t afford to put off,”
McDonald says.
14. Septic system, odor, shower drain, new home
warranty, Contractors State License Board
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QUESTION: I have an engineered septic system. There is an awful
odor coming from my shower drain. It smells like mold or
mildew. This only occurs in the summer when the weather
gets hot. This is the only place we notice this smell.
Our house was built four years ago. What could it be?
Jacqueline
Peters, via email
ANSWER: “The septic system shouldn’t have anything to do with
this problem, according to Vince McDonald of McDonald
Plumbing Heating and Air Conditioning in Sacramento.
“More than likely you have a water leak in the shower
drain, pan or enclosure,” he says, “an unusual situation
in a home that is only four years old. I suggest that
you call your plumber and/or the original builder (don’t
let them tell you it is out of warranty). When in doubt
on the issue of the warranty, call the State Contractors
License Board (800-321-2752) for clarification,”
McDonald says.
15. Shower fixture installation, rough-in
dimensions
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QUESTION: I am having a problem installing a shower fixture. I
had a plumber come out and change my shower faucet from
a triple to a single handle faucet. I had the tile guy
install the tile and then I was going to put on the
shower fixtures myself. When I got to the water control
fixture, I noticed that the stem that extends from the
valve body was sticking out too far. I have had several
people and another plumber come out and make several
suggestions regarding this problem. The last thing I
want is the expense of removing the tile and doing the
plumbing all over again. But it seems like the valve
body has to be pushed back further into the wall. Is
that my only option at this point?
Brigette
Howe, via email
ANSWER: “It sounds like your plumber made a mistake with the
installation,” says Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing,
Heating and Air Conditioning in Sacramento. “All shower
valves need to be installed within a certain range of
the depth in the wall. Depending on the manufacturer,
the installer is generally provided with a 1-to 3-inch
margin for installation depths, he says. “Outside that
margin and there is trouble. It is usually more common
and easier to deal with valves that are not far enough
out of the wall.”
“We would never install a valve in a wall without
knowing the necessary rough-in dimensions and the
finished wall thickness,” McDonald says. “So unless you
told him that the finished wall was going to be much
further out than the existing tile, he made a mistake. I
suggest you have the original plumber come back and try
to install the trim. He might be able to work through
the opening in the wall behind the trim plate to move
the valve back,” McDonald says.
“A repair plate also is available. This is basically a
large oval dish approximately 12 inches wide by 7 inches
high that will provide for more access in the wall
without complete removal of the tile. McDonald also
suggests contacting the manufacturer to get help, since
its representatives are familiar with problems like
yours. “Whatever it takes, I believe that any reputable
plumbing firm that makes such a mistake should take care
of any costs involved to make the corrections, even it
if means paying the tile setter to patch back the tile,”
McDonald says.
16. Washer and dryer relocation
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QUESTION: How expensive and difficult is it to move a washer
and dryer to the other side of a wall, i.e. the common
wall between the house and the garage? I would like to
move the appliances into the garage to exactly the same
spot on the other side of the wall. Do I need a plumber
or an electrician or both?
Joyce Bisbee,
via email
ANSWER: “The project you describe requires plumbing,
electrical, drywall and painting skills,” says Vince
McDonald of McDonald Plumbing, Heating and Air
Conditioning in Sacramento. “You may be able to find one
contractor who can perform all of the functions or you
can hire your own subcontractors. The most complicated
portion, I would anticipate, is the plumbing,” he says.
“The code has certain requirements when installing a
washer in the garage, and a licensed plumbing contractor
would know what is needed.”
McDonald says “It would be difficult to give you an
accurate cost to perform the project without seeing it.
The contractor might have to open up the wall to confirm
the configuration of the plumbing and electrical. If
everything was properly installed originally, your
project will be easier and less costly. Don’t forget
that a building permit is required on a project like
this,” he says. “A building permit is one component that
assures that the job was performed according to code.”
17. Septic odor, master bedroom, summertime
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QUESTION:We moved into a three story house with a septic system
and soon noticed that in the summer, the sewer gasses
back up into the master bedroom when there is high water
usage (showers, etc) and also the back deck smells like
a sewage pond in the evening hours. In the winter time,
we do not smell any of the gasses. Four pipes come
straight out of the top of the roof directly over the
master bedroom. We have tried specialized carbon filters
on top of the pipes, but they just cause the gasses to
back up worse than before. We have also tried removing
the septic tank covers to see if venting the gasses
helps, but this had no effect. I have called the septic
people and they tell me they just install tanks.
Plumbers tell me they don't deal with issues such as
those. Do you have an idea what is wrong and/or who to
call? I hate living in a sewer..
Kelly Meredith , Placerville
ANSWER: “First, I would suggest calling and consulting with a
plumber,” says Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing,
Heating and Air Conditioning in Sacramento. “The smell
is in the house so you may have an open drain or vent
pipe. A properly designed and installed plumbing system
will prevent the entry of sewer gas from entering the
building.”
“The plumber will first visually check the plumbing
system for failures or faulty installation,” he says.
“In particular, they need to confirm that all plumbing
fixtures are properly vented and provided with a trap.
When you look under your sink you will find a trap in
the drainage pipe before it enters the wall. All
plumbing fixtures require a trap to keep the sewer gases
from entering the house. The function of the vent is to
keep the water in the traps from siphoning out.”
“If the plumber is unable to find the cause to your
problem on the initial call, I suggest you have them or
another professional smoke test the plumbing drain and
vent system, McDonald says. Locating sewer gas smells in
a home or larger building can be a challenge and this is
one of the new technologies recently developed that
allows us to test the building and underground plumbing
drainage and vent systems for failures and leaks without
expensive, messy excavation or demolition. With minimal
disruption, the building system can be tested with
non-toxic smoke, similar to what is used in theatrical
productions. The smoke takes out the guesswork as it
passes through the wall and cracks, indicating the
location of the failure.”
18. Odor, kitchen appliances, faucet
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QUESTION: Help! I've been upgrading my kitchen appliances and I
had a new dishwasher installed. For several weeks, after
dishes washed, I'd open up the door and the rotten egg
smell was overpowering. Then, I had a new sink and
faucet installed. Now, the rotten egg smell happens
EVERY TIME I turn on the faucet, and, not in the
dishwasher. I have to let it run about 20-30 seconds and
the smell stops.
My installer came back and checked hookups and the
garbage disposal for odor. He checked all the other
faucets in house, etc. and can't find anything wrong.
There is no smell at any other faucet. The smell
is sickening. I called the faucet manufacturer and
though he thought I was nuts, he is sending me another
ceramic cartridge disk. My installer said to email you
to see if you had any suggestions, as he was stumped. I
would appreciate any help/suggestions you may have to
eliminate this.
Kathy Locher
ANSWER: “You are not nuts, we have had this happen several
times,” says Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing,
Heating and Air Conditioning in Sacramento. “I have
personally smelled this and you would think you were at
some sulfur hot springs like up at Mount Lassen,” he
says. “You certainly won't impress your friends when
they come and check out your new kitchen!”
“Each time the cause of the problem was the water heater
anode rod, which protects that water heater from
corrosion and ultimate failure by leakage. It is
installed at the time of manufacture of the water
heater. It is also a sacrificial component of the water
heater. Without it, your water heater will corrode and
leak much sooner.
“Because all water is aggressive and corrosive to some
degree – some much more than others – it is necessary to
have a device inside the water heater to keep the water
from eating away at the tank,” he says. “On some very
rare occasions, as the anode breaks down, the byproduct
ends up smelling like rotten eggs.”
“Contact your water supplier and ask if they have any
experience with this problem. Because it only occurs
with certain anodes and water, they may have some
suggestions. Have your plumber check with your water
heater manufacturer. They will more than likely have a
replacement anode that will not react to your water. It
is important not to just reinstall a new anode of the
same composition because the problem will reoccur.
Finally, have your plumber also flush your system with
chlorine tablets to get the smell out of the pipes and
plumbing fixtures.”
19. Bathtub drain lever
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QUESTION: My bathtub drain lever has become difficult to
operate. What must I do to get at the linkage to find
why this has happened? I can close the drain and open
it, but it is much harder to do.
Joseph St.
Laurent
ANSWER: “The most common drain lever, hopefully the same kind
that you have, connects to a brass rod that connects to
a coil or barrel inside a hidden pipe behind the tub,”
says Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing, Heating and
Air Conditioning in Sacramento. “This assembly, commonly
called a ‘waste and overflow,’ connects the drain on the
bottom with the overflow. Over time the lever portion
gets worn and is difficult to remove.”
“My suggestion is to remove the ‘innards’ of the waste
and overflow, inspect it and possibly replace at least
the top lever and plate assembly,” he says. “You can
find these parts at most home improvement or plumbing
supply stores. They are easily removed; just take your
screwdriver and remove the two screws that secure the
overflow plate and pull the assembly out. When you
replace the assembly with a new one, make sure to adjust
the length of the brass rod so that the overall length
is the same as the old one.”
20. Washer, drain line
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QUESTION: The house I live in was built in 1979 on slab
construction. I've had the plumbing checked for blockage
as well as the roof vents checked and they are clean and
open. Two years ago I replaced the toilet flanges with
stronger ones, and the wax seals as they were leaking
sewer gas. Now when the clothes washer empties on a
large load, the toilets gurgle, the water level moves up
and down and if the toilet is flushed during this period
it is slow to drain. Other than when the washer is
draining, everything works normally. All the lines have
been rooted twice to the street and they were clean. Is
the issue that modern washers overwhelm 1979 plumbing,
or do I have something else going on? I considered
having the lines videoed but the cost seems way too
expensive. The county checked the county section with
video and it is fine. I looked online for simple
solutions and saw others that have this same issue but
no one found the culprit.
Steve Kent, Citrus Heights
ANSWER: “It sounds like you have a restriction in your main
line some where between the point where the laundry line
connects with the toilet and the county connection,”
says Vince McDonald, owner of McDonald Plumbing, Heating
and Air Conditioning in Sacramento.
“If you did not have the main drain under the house
cleaned when the drains to the street were rooted, that
would be your best next step,” he says. “If you still
have problems after having that done, a video inspection
would be step number two. The cost of a video inspection
may seem high to you, but it beats the heck out of jack
hammering up the floor and digging up pipes to see what
is going on!”
"Video cameras have become an invaluable tool for all
professional service/repair plumbers. Prior to the video
systems, we did our best with the tools available, but
without the needed diagnostic information, the service
to the customer and the cost to perform the work
suffered. Cameras have now been around for more than ten
years and the cost to camera a line has come way down.”
“I wish I could just blame the age of your house and the
new high volume wash machine for the problem, but that
is not the case,” he says. “A plumbing system that is
properly installed and is clean will not have problems
as you describe. A plumbing professional with a good
camera and well versed on plumbing waste and venting
systems should be able to get you fixed up or at least
inform you of your options.”
21. Water heater, pilot light
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QUESTION: The pilot light on the 40-gallon water heater I
bought about three years ago keeps going out. I usually
have to relight it after taking a shower, turning on the
dishwasher or washing a load of laundry. I had the
thermocouple and burner replaced, and I had PG&E come
out to make sure there is no gas leak that might cause
the safety valve to turn itself off. Since both the
utility company and the plumbers agree that I have
already replaced the only two parts that go bad and have
to be changed when a hot water heater goes on the blink,
I called the manufacturer, but they are adamant about
not replacing the heater. What can I do? I have spent so
much money already on the replacement parts and
plumbers’ visits.
Rose Wagner,
via email
ANSWER: “It is difficult to properly diagnose your water
heater without visiting the site and running some
tests,” says Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing, Heater
and Air Conditioning in Sacramento. The first and most
likely component of any gas water heater failure is the
thermocouple. Now that you have had it changed, a
possible next step is to check the thermostat.
Occasionally, the high-limit switch in the thermostat
will fail,” he says. This can be hard to diagnose,
because shortly after shutting the pilot off, it will
usually reset itself. If this turns out to be the
problem, you will have to replace the thermostat.
However, there are several other possible causes that
are equipment as well as installation related,” says
McDonald. “If the company you are calling is unable to
make the repairs, it may be time to call a new one.”
22. Recirculation system, hot water
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QUESTION: Last month a person asked about a way to get hot
water without wasting so much water. The advice was to
install a recirculation system. My question is: Can a
recirculation system be installed where the water pipes
are imbedded in concrete? My home is on a concrete slab.
M.C. Gress,
via email
ANSWER: “Any house can have a recirculation system,” says
Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing, Heating and Air
Conditioning in Sacramento. “The best system has a
designated return line,” he says. “This is a pipe that
connects at the far end of the house from the water
heater and travels all the way back to the water heater.
If it is not possible to have this line, or a person
does not want to spend the money to have it installed,
there are several systems that use the cold water line
as the return line. These systems can be installed in
any home regardless of construction. Depending on the
system, the pump is installed either at the water heater
or under a sink at the far end of the home. Some are
automatic and others are activated by a switch.”
23. Faucet handle removal
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QUESTION:I have a leak in my bathtub. I attempted to change the
stem but cannot remove the handle of the faucet. I am
afraid to force it and break a pipe inside. What can I
do to loosen the handle? Thank you for any advice you
can give me.
Mrs. JoDi
ANSWER: “I know exactly what you are talking about. There is
a very handy tool available for such a problem as yours
called a "handle puller". This tool can be purchased
from any larger home hardware store or home center for
less than $20. Without this tool you might break the
handle or stem and would need to hire a licensed plumber
to come repair it.”
24. Mineral deposits, magnets
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QUESTION: I live in Placer County. I have a well with lots of
minerals in the water. I am putting in a new bathroom
sink, onyx countertop and toilet. How can I care for
this and keep off the ugly mineral deposits. I would
like a daily or weekly routine to keep it looking new.
R. Norman, Loomis
ANSWER “Magnets are one product on the market that
some people believe work great. These are special, very
strong magnets that are placed on the pipes where the
water enters the house and at the water heater. We
installed them several years ago and 90% of the
customers reported substantial improvement in hard water
problems. The magnets change the way the minerals in the
water act. Normally minerals in the water come out
and adhere to faucets, countertop, etc. The magnets keep
the minerals in suspension and instead of adhering the
minerals can be simply be wiped off the surface when the
water dries up. I quit selling the magnets because it
was just to time consuming educating the customers on
how they work. Also, there was too much of a "hocus
pocus" factor.
25. Sink replacement, cultured marble countertop
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QUESTION: My home was built in the mid-70s. The bathroom
countertops are made of a synthetic material that looks
like fake marble. I need to replace a porcelain bathroom
sink. It is installed from under the countertop with
four clips and some kind of glue or sealant. I can get
the clips off ok, but it is really stuck to the bottom
of the countertop. How can I get the sink "unstuck"
without damaging the countertop? Once I get the sink
out, I'd like to install a drop-in type sink. What kind
of sealant should be used around the bottom of the sink?
Ron Hills
ANSWER: “It sounds like you have a cultured marble counter
top with the lavatory sink caulked to the bottom of the
counter,” says Vince McDonald of McDonald Plumbing,
Heating and Air Conditioning in Sacramento.
“I suggest following these steps to remove the sink:
1. Remove the four support clips under the sink.
2. Take a razor knife and carefully cut the caulking
seal from the inside of the sink. You may not be able to
cut all the way through the caulking, but that should
not be necessary.
3. Now take a chisel or large screw driver and carefully
drive it between the sink and the counter top. Don't try
to separate it in one spot only. Rather, work it around
the rim in several places so that you minimize the
stress on the counter top. The counter top can break,
crack or chip so don't be too reckless. Take your time
and the sink should drop out with this method.
“The new lavatory sink that you describe is called a
"self rimming" sink, he says. The lip of the sink will
sit on to of the counter, which differs from the one you
are removing. These sinks usually come with a small tube
of latex caulking," McDonald says. "If your sink doesn't
come with caulking, pick up a small tube of tub and tile
latex caulking. It is not a durable as silicone caulk,
but it is much more user friendly and makes for a nice
professional job."
“After you caulk the sink to the counter, use a wet
finger in a wiping motion to push the caulking into the
gap between the sink and the counter. Follow up with a
wet rag over the top of your finger, in the same motion,
to make a nice clean joint and remove any excess
caulking. The clean up with this caulking is a snap,
because it is performed with water.”
26. Odor, fan, negative pressure
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QUESTION: We are experiencing an unusual odor in our master
bathroom when we use
the hall bathroom when the fan is turned on. In other
words, when the fan in the hall bath is turned on we
seem to get a sewer odor in the bedroom bath. The
baths are approximately 30 feet apart. Any ideas?
Boyce Thelen
ANSWER: “A plumbing problem may be causing the smell,” says
Vince McDonald of
McDonald Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning in
Sacramento.
"When the exhaust fan is turned on, it will cause a
negative pressure in the home," he says. "If the house
is closed up tightly, the plumbing drain and vent system
may become a pathway to bring air into the house, to
replace the air that is sucked out by the fan. All
plumbing fixtures require a trap to prevent the sewer
gasses in the system from entering the home. On the
bathroom basin and bathtub the trap is installed
directly to the fixture drain built into the toilet.
That is why a toilet always holds water,” he says.
“Sometimes you will hear the trap referred to as a
"goose neck". It is configured in such a way that it
always holds water and prevents the sewer gas in the
drainage system from entering the home. My guess is that
you may have a plumbing fixture in the bathroom that is
installed without a trap. The trap for the shower and
bathtub is found under the house," McDonald says.
“You may also have a bad toilet seal at the floor or a
broken vent pipe in the wall. A licensed plumbing
contractor will be able to inspect your plumbing system
to make sure it is properly installed and confirm if you
indeed have a plumbing problem.”
Call (916) 233-4194
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Tips and advice from Sacramento's plumbing
experts for over 50 years!
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